Rover Explorer Scouts Association

Traditional & Quality Rover Scouting

Playing Card Game No.1

Where to play = Anywhere where they can hurtle about, but better if there is some natural cover or places to hide.

Requirements=

  1. Young people in two or more teams, good with two large teams, Scouters who do not need oxygen can join in.
  2. Good for Parents evenings where dragging them through the mud might not be a good idea.
  3. A pack of playing cards per team, different designs and or colours on back.
  4. Set a time limit or call them in if the play is stagnating, or you want the tea made..

Preperation=

Discretly remove the same low and high cards from the packs, vary these if you play it again.

Shuffle packs individually.

Deal one card to each player, note the pack given to what team.

Play=

Send one team out, followed shortly by the next etc.

Random play, players run amok and accost any player from another team and demand to see his/her card, the one with the higher card wins and takes the lower card. The losing player returns to base to be dealt a new card from his/her teams pack.

Patrol Leadership play, PL gets team together and notes cards and values. From this organises tactics such as higher card holders make a direct attack while lower card holders try not to get caught...........

Winning Team is the one with the most cards from another team.

Playing Cards Game 2

A relatively short game, good filler between program sessions.

Use as many cards as time and player numbers indicate.

Make sure the ASL can remember where he/she put them.

Discretely place cards around the grounds and or in HQ.

For Troops new to obsevation make them obvious.

For practiced observers obscure them accordingly.

On the word or whistle 'Go' Scouts try and find as many as possible in time allowed.

Patrol/Team with most cards/highest points is the winner.

The Basic Wide Game

Scrounge (buy if pushed) Knitting Wool in various colours.

It must be woollen wool, not nylon, or you will have scouts with only one arm intact at the end of the evening.

Test breaking strength before use.

Divide Troop into Teams, Patrols are best with points system used to reward positions at end of game.

Fall Troop in, and get heavy and dictate only rough and tumble, no punching/kicking/gouging etc.

Heavily penalise transgressors.

Select a colour per team.

Issue a short length of wool (a 'Life') per Scout long enough to be tied to the upper left (or right) arm, state at start.

Send teams into play area.

Teams tackle each other as they see fit and try to 'kill' an opponent by breaking their wool life.

Once a wool life is ripped off that player is 'dead' and out of the game.

'Dead' players return to base for a new life.

Base monitor can dictate a penalty time period before fitting new life and letting player back into the game.

Victors keep broken life.

At end of game count lives 'won' to determine team position in game.

If you have the manpower and space the game can be played with a seperate base per team.

WHISTLE COMMANDS FOR GAMES.

Devise a simple set of whistle signals and ensure all know them, such as;

One whistle = Start.

Two whistles = Stop play, back to base.

Three whistles = All back to Hut/master control/campsite, etc.(or emergency, freeze and look to blower for orders)

WHISTLE COMMANDS.

Are good to be used at all times, even in the hut/campsite.

Whistles can be heard above normal din.

And they save a Scouters voice.

The Basic Wide Game Level 1. The 'Flag' Raid

To be played outside in a wood or area with good cover.

As Basic above but a Scouter/Helper per team.

Rolls of hazard tape or large diameter rope or small diameter with 'flags' on so it can be seen.

A base per team marked by tape or rope of around 8 metres plus in diameter.

Do not put at throat height.

Distance between bases to suit terrain, skill and time etc.

In centre of base place upright broom handle with suitable pennant attatched (no sharp bits).

Drums/cones/plastic buckets etc may be used instead of flags.

Team/base Scouter inside base with wool lives for his/her team, and a whistle.

OBJECT OF GAME

Get all the flags into your base. Success signalled by base Scouter on his/her whistle.

PLAY

Teams start at their own base.

PL decides how to split his/her troops between attackers and defenders.

No defenders allowed in base other than to deposit captured flag.

Attackers once in are safe and can claim one only flag from base Scouter if his/her life is intact.

No play if you have lost your life. Return to your base for a new life.

If you have a flag and lose your life you have to give it to your attacker.

Captured lives can be counted or disregarded, they do like them counted.

Cheating players must be dealt with severely.

The Rocket Game

Same layout as above, but no flags, plus a central area for storing rocket parts at start.

Objective of game is to assemble a rocket in your base area by obtaining parts from central store and/or from other bases.

A rocket consists of round plastic drums and traffic cones;

Three or four drums for its body

Two or three drums for its motors

Cones for nose and top of motors

Drums and motors must be assembled in a 'rocket' shape to win.

However there is only sufficient parts to construct one complete rocket. All others will have one or more parts missing!

SKILLS ASSESSMENT

Troop Nights must never ever be anything like school.

This makes checking their skill level a bit of a problem.

Scouters have to be very clever and ingenious in assessing without resorting to tests or exams.

Scouting is always a game so we must assess via a game of some sort.

One very popular method is The Quarter Masters Stores (or Bosun's, not sure what the air section have).

Knotting is used in this example.

  • You announce that the QM has run out of knots and will buy certain knots, paying in points.
  • The knots in question are written up on the black/white board with the relevant purchase price.
  • Or written up on a laminated card for future low prep use.
  • Chose a variety of knots to suit the Troops skills level.
  • This is a game where good knotters can train their less skilled Patrol colleagues.
  • The QMs assistants indicate what particular knots they are buying, shown on the boards or cards, or they shout out.
  • Patrol Leaders are given a small loan of points to start with.
  • This small loan will allow each Scout to buy a length of knotting cord from a knot buyer.
  • Cost of cord written on boards or cards.
  • Scouts approach a knot buyer, buy a knotting cord then demonstrate a knot.
  • Once the knot buyer is satisfied with the Scouts competence ( Knot buyers can get the seller to demonstrate a knot more than once, just to show its a good knot) he pays for that knot and places it in his knot storage box.
  • The Scout has now made a profit and can move on to another knot buyer.
  • A bonus can be paid to the Patrol which has made the most profit.
  • You will have to decide how much to pay for the knots and charge for the cord.
  • Knotting Cords should be woven flexible and about a metre long.
  • This game requires a bit of planning from the PLs.

'QMs Stores' can be used to assess many skills, map and compass, first aid, pioneering etc etc.

Balloon Stomp

This ones just for fun.

More than enough round balloons for the total number of players.

Same number of 1metre/1yard lengths of; Odd wool lengths not used for 'Lives', string etc.

Can be played on mass or as a inviduals from each Patrol

Issue each with a balloon and string (reserves for those that burst/lose one).

On the command STOMP players try and burst others balloons whilst keeping theirs intact.

Winner is obvious, but strong control needed as many get carried away.

Fun game but best played once an evening as many are out quickly and sit around bored.

Bored is not allowed in Trad Scouting.

Horse and Rider Tag

Fun and team work, with verbal input required from Patrols (look behind you!!!).

Patrols pair up with arrangements made for odd ones.

One becomes the horse the other the rider.

The rider tucks his/her necker down the back of his/her trousers with most of the necker exposed.

(Bit dodgy this if the neckers are not marked with names so an alternative is best.

You could use the tatty rags normally reserved for triangular bandage practice.

An ingenious Scouter makes sure kit has more than one use).

Pairs start in their corners.

On the command go they ride into the play area and try to steal other neckers whilst keeping their own.

Rider and Horse are out if they lose their necker.

You can use various scoring methods e.g. total captured neeckers, individual round winners, Knockout etc.

But remember no bored Scouts.

I once read that if the Scouts have a favourite game/s only use it/them sparingly!!!!!

Think about it!

It took me a while!

PRISON

For the more involved wide game such as the Flag Raid or Rocket Ship you can also use Bases as prisons.

'Killed' players must accompany the player, or a person nominated by the player who took their 'Life', back to the 'killers' home base.

Here they must stay supervised by the Base Scouter until one of their own team complete with life gets in and Tags them for release. They then return to their own base for a life.

Alternative.

One or more members of teams are nominated medics. They carry 'x' spare lives and have two tasks;

1. Get into prisons and fit a new life allowing the repaired Scout to be released by the Base Scouter, however the repaired Scout cannot leave with a flag/whatever.

2. Roam the field of play repairing 'killed' team mates.

  • They can only carry a limited number of lives and must return to home base for a top up.
  • They can be 'killed' if caught and must return to their home base or fellow medic for a new life.
  • Being a medic carrying a red cross armband or similarly marked satchel means they should not be attacked in the usual scout manner. This suits the less rumbustious/injured from previous wide game Scout/Scouter/Parent/DC etc.

Relay Games

There are thousands of these, most can be played in or out after a quick check on the suitability of the ground and shrubbery.

They are ideal as a quick in fill, the gap between program sections etc etc.

Most need a start line and a finish line such as; joints in flooring, chalk marks, painted lines, cones, water drums etc.

Over Under.

line them up in columns facing the start line.

Get them to leave a gap between each other.

On the 'Go' the back player alternately crawls under the legs and over the backs of the team. At the front they run to the far line and back to their original place.

They then pat the back of the next in line who does the same but on return must go over or under the last player to gain their place.

And so on until the front player runs straight to the far line and on his/her return goes over and under the whole team from the back to the front. At that point No1 orders the alert and the team stands quietly. Award points for places.

A SLIGHTLY TECHNICAL ONE.

The Signal Transmitter

You need;

1. A fair bit of small guage electric cable, single or twin core. Scraps will do. Coiled on drums.

2. A low power flashing/rotating beacon/lamp (signal transmitter). Voltage dependent on battery.

3. A clock or timer to suit battery voltage.

4. A pole to put the signal device on top of.

5. A number of 'booster boxes'. Basically connector blocks/boxes that can be snipped or disconnected without losing bits.

6 A battery. Those 6 volt ones with the springs on top, they are cheap in builders merchants for lanterns and road markers. 4 will give you 24volts which might be right for that old fork truck red flashing lamp you scrounged.

An old car one is ok if it suits your other bits but its heavy and has acid in it.

Its a simple circuit. Depends on single or twin cable.

But its basicaly a battery/batteries feed the lamp and clock through the booster boxes.

You can keep the battery and signal pole all together.

The booster boxes should be some distance apart.

The attackers try and disconnect the booster boxes whilst the defenders try and reconnect them.

The clock indicates the time the 'transmitter' is on.

Any one booster box will of course stop the transmitter and the clock.

Normal wide game rules.

Takes a little making and scrounging but adds a certain piquance to a woodland wide game.

And requires a bit more stealth and planning on both sides.

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